Thursday, 8 October 2015

Rolls Royce. Nearly there.

So the beast is beginning to take its familiar shape. Hopefully so far you have found none of this too stressful? Well its now get even easier. Honest.


Thes two V brackets and the step are glued onto the rear compartment.



The front head lights are glued onto the mudguards. The radiator shields are then glued onto their hinges. The two brackets can be used to hold them open or, as was the case when in action the shields were locked in place with the front edges locked so that they created an arrow head and protected the radiator.


The spare wheels are glued onto the locating lugs.


Now the wheels. This illustration shows clearly how to place the rear double wheels on.



The two front wheels are then glued onto the axle. Job done.




Fairly easy.

This model has a great deal of scope for making it in various ways to give it a very individual campaign look. Worth doing is a Google images scan as this will bring up many interesting pictures that will give you a great many ideas.

Cheers,
Paul
Empress Miniatures

Rolls Royce, main body part two.

Glue the rear and front axle onto the chassis.




The engine is next if you plan to use it. File the two ends so that it fits onto the chassis.

Next the parts needed for the body and the engine compartment.
The resin body is glued onto the chassis. It clicks into place easily and make sure that you slide it to the rear as far as it goes. Then glue the rear section in place as this ensures the body is in the correct place.


Next up is the engine and compartment. Glue the engine in place with the high part of the top bracket towards the radiator.   The engine fits onto the four lugs on the chassis and you may need to file the tubular section a little to ensure a fit. You can see that I am not into engines as I am sure there are proper names for the bits of the engine. Also file flat the fan pip so that it is flush with the fan. Its best to put the engine in before building the side walls.




Next  you may need to take the two sides of the engine compartment and cut with a sharp knife about 1mm from each end. The picture shows how much. I did this to ensure a good fit and filed it to tidy it up.


Then build the engine compartment around the engine. In the illustration I left out the engine on this model so that you can see the compartment.


When all is glued and drul get the two bonnet sections and glue in place. These can be glued open to allow access to the engine.

Next glue in place the two brackets that support the front mudguards.



When dry glue in place the front mudguards.


Then glue the rear mudguards in place.

   

Then glue the rear box in place.


Then glue the brackets for the running boards.



When all dry glue on the running boards and the top boxes onto the rear mudguards.




How to put an Empress Rolls Royce armoured car together.

The Rolls Royce Armoured Car is iconic and so when we planned to produce one we decided to get carried away. Instead of the normal resin block associated with wargames models we produced a model kit. This kit is not for the faint hearted and on a scale of 1 to 5 I would put it at 4. However it is a very cleanly cast kit and so very little cleaning of parts is needed which is a big plus. Also many of the parts supplied are unnecessary such as the stand alone Vickers MG and the engine. However we designed the kit for a number of eventualities and as the Vickers was regularly set up on its mount we gave that option to the modeler.

We are also proud of the design of the spoked wheels which took a great deal of thought to accomplish and much credit goes to the late Stuart Griffin who eventually managed to cast the wheels after some experiment. Thanks mate, RIP.

I have been modelling for a great many years and have therefore accumulated a lot of experience and more importantly equipment. For the assembly of this kit I used a knife, a couple of needle files, and super glue. I also put my patient chip in which I felt may be needed. In all honesty I really did not need to worry as there were few problems and none that were not easily overcome. One of the biggest pieces of advice I can give is that some of the brackets are best glued and then left to set until solid before proceeding. I did not always follow this advice ha ha.

Lets start with the wheels. They come in two halves with one half having a male lug the other a female whole. This ensure that the spokes inter link. Int he picture you can see what wheel sets you will need for the complete vehicle. There are also two special wheels for the inner rear wheel. One is the standard spoked wheel and the other has no spokes. The diagram shows how they fit onto the wheel.
      Next up are the pieces needed for the Vickers. Only the MG is relevant for the turret.


 
The turret MG is located into the pin whole. The turret lid is glued on and the the hatch glued. Note the turret handle goes onto the inside of the hatch when it is closed.